Second evening session in a row at Gooch’s beach. What a difference a day makes.
Met up with friends Trevor and Lisa, and their friend Kate, a fearless newbie who paddled out with the rest of us into the roiling cove. That’s the thing about Gooch’s - at least in my limited experience - the waves there are completely unpredictable. Surging up from out of nowhere, and collapsing with barely a rideable shoulder. Maybe it’s just a coincidence of the days I’ve been out there, but these waves are not the gentle rollers that slide into Long Sands. We were wondering aloud what about the bathymetry or shape of the cove might result in such an odd swell, but were obviously left without any answers. A local would know, I’m sure. Next time I’m gonna find one.
Anyway, by the time we left, things felt more than ominous with sun depleted and overhead faces rolling in beneath a darkening grey.
Lisa described it best, I think, when she said that it’s like trying to catch a wave in a gigantic pot of boiling water.
P.S. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention T and L’s wicked awesome new surf-mobile, an old pickup they picked up on the cheap and refurbished with a wooden bed and roof rack. It was super sweet to see the three of them pull up crammed into the silver cab, rocking three boards on the rack. Yes, I am green with envy.