Long Sands: 10.08.30 & 31
Monday afternoon’s disappointing onshore winds and diminished swell were unequivocally made up for on Tuesday, arguably the best day of the Danielle swell. It was a two session day (god bless this summer of freelance lifestyle).
The morning was better. Taller waves, peeling just right and the tide mitigated the effect of the many bathers in the water. It was one of those mornings where I could feel myself improving - working on crossovers, walking up to the nose if not quite hanging anything - and I would have stayed up at the beach if not for all the work I had waiting for me at home.
Luckily, I was able to convince Winters (and his camera) to join me for an evening session. The swell had diminished noticeably and was closing out more often (is it the point in he tide that’s responsible for that?). Oh, and I had worn myself out from the morning, but I made valiant attempts to look appropriately skillful for the camera. I’m still waiting to see some of the results (I’m not hopeful). Many more surfers in the water, jockeying for position and with fewer large sets, the lineup felt crowded. High tide is better for shooting, though, so these are the compromises we make.
The last wave I caught was the best. Too bad Winters had moved on to some artful long-exposure beach shots by that point. Next time I’ll have to hire him.
Oh, and it was a small pleasure to see Justin heading out to catch a few waves before sunset. I hope, sir, when I’m in your position that I can strike that balance.
